It would be equally fair, in taking a thematic approach to Quebec city to consider the nightlife. Something strange happened in Quebec city- after the first weekend it became extraordinarily difficult to get up in the morning- like my body had rebelled back into Sydney time. A combination of windchill factor during the day and the fact that I had my room (mostly) to myself to sleep may also have helped. So I found myself staying out later and later with my new friends and I never did make it for the early morning bakery run :-)
The results of which were that I got an opportunity two nights in a row to see a part of the city that less tourists get to see- chansons de boite (songs in a box- live music in small bars) from 2- 4 am on a weeknight. The atmosphere of sitting in a low-ceilinged Quebecan bar, carved out of raw mountain rock, candlelit, with a bunch of French and German artists, photographers, actors and students listening to local guitar and singing was quite something. I have also never seen French wine served from a 10 litre cask (ordinary) at extortionate prices.
A word on comprehension. It is incredibly difficult to understand the Quebecqois accent unless you are Quebecqois. My French friends were much easier and they spoke a mixture of French and English most of the time which was not too hard to follow. After a week I was judged competent enough by them to be invited for a night in house, squashed together with a conglomeration of cushions and quilts for an evening in of sour mixed lollies, beer and a screening of The Goonies (dubbed in French- no subtitles). If anyone wants to show me the English version, I might be game- it was really funny in French.
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